Riga, the capital of Latvia, is still considered to be ‘off the beaten track’ for many travellers, especially non-Europeans. When I visited, I was the only North American in my hostel. I surprised a lot of people when I told them I was Canadian which was actually kind of fun. Despite being under the radar, Riga really is a neat place to visit. Old town was quaint and picturesque while the newer areas reminded me a little bit of Paris or Vienna- but worn, like you could visibly see the hard times that this city had gone through. It was great to explore for a a couple of days and relatively inexpensive. I would recommend Riga, and Latvia itself, to any traveller looking to expand past the stereotypical Eurotrip. As the girls behind the check in desk at my hostel told me when they looked at my passport, ‘true travellers come to Riga’.
Getting to Riga
Riga is incredibly accessible. It hosts a large airport just 10km outside of the city, and is served by multiple airlines including the budget friendly Wizzair and Ryanair. Getting from the airport to the city centre is easy; bus 22 runs every 10 minutes or so and will take you into the city in about 45 minutes. Taxis are also available at the airport, but make sure to negotiate a price rather than rely on the meter.
Riga also has a major train and bus station just outside of Old Town. Latvian Railways connects many cities within the country, along with select cities in Russia, Estonia, and Belarus, and there are plenty of coach bus lines that route through Riga. I used Eurolines Lux Express from Tallinn and travelled very comfortably with lots of legroom, and a personal TV for my use. The bus even had a coffee machine which kind of blew my mind. We don’t have buses like that here in Canada!
Being on the coast of the Baltic Sea, Latvia also has a port. The Tallink line visits Latvia daily and offers services to and from Stockholm.
Getting Around Riga
The best way to get around is by foot- the city is very walkable and pedestrian friendly. As cars are not allowed in Old Town your other options are to rent a bike or use public transportation. Riga has a network of city busses and street cards. Tickets can be purchased (exact change, cash only) at the time of use, or for a more budget friendly option purchase an e-talon card ahead of time from a ticket office.
Where to Stay in Riga for 2 Days
I found Riga to be a very affordable European city, especially on a backpacker’s budget. While Old Town Riga, like in other cities, is the most expensive area to stay in it’s also the most central so it’s where I recommend to stay,. Especially if you like cute and charming buildings as much as I do. I visited during my backpacking days and had a fantastic experience at the Naughty Squirrel Backpacker hostel.
There are also plenty of hotels and B&Bs in the area as well. Take a look at St. Peter’s Boutique Hotel or Forums Boutique hotel for something mid-range and central. If you are looking for a splurge, try the elegant Grand Hotel Kempinski.
How to Spend 2 Days in Riga
A beautiful and touristic part of the city, Old Town is a great place to explore on foot. Filled with restaurants, souvenir shops, and history it’s a great spot to start exploring. Free tours are offered daily that will explain the history of the city and show you popular features of the city including the city walls, guild buildings, museums, and churches.
The Black Cat of Riga
One of Riga’s most commonly seen symbols is that of the Black Cat. The legend behind this symbol tells of a wealthy tradesman who was denied access to the Big Guild. In his anger he erected statues of two black cats on the rooftop of his home. The cats were positioned in angry positions, with arches backs and raised tails, and were positioned so that their tails faced the Big Guild. Today the black cats are a famous symbol of the city, and although black cats can be found throughout Riga, the originals can still be found today at the Cat House.
St. Peter’s Church
The oldest church in Riga, St. Peter’s is also the most popular amongst tourists because the tower offers a beautiful panoramic view of the city. There is an entry fee but once you had paid you are welcome to take the elevator to the look out and spend as long as you like.
Museum of Occupation of Latvia
A must-see in Riga, the Museum of Occupation of Latvia houses a collection of memorabilia and items depicting the history of the Latvian occupation during 1940-1991. The exhibits, following the museums motto of Remembering, Commemorating, Reminding, show what life was like during these times; the horrors the people faces during the Soviet and Nazi terrors, and their fight and eventual triumph in regaining their freedom in 1991. There is no fixed price for visiting, but donations in an amount of your choosing are requested upon arrival
The Corner House
Located on the corner of Brivibas and Stavu streets is the Corner House; the KGB headquarters during the times of the Latvian Occupation. During the Occupation years many Latvians were tortured, imprisoned and murdered here. Many more were interrogated on the premises before being sent to work camps. At the time of my visit the Corner House was not open to viewers, however it typically is.
An important Latvian Monument, the freedom monument was created in remembrance of the soldiers who lost their lives in the Latvian War of Independence. It was completed in 1935 and survived the soviet occupation. The monument shows a woman with her arms open wide, which is meant to be reflective of freedom embracing the whole of Latvia. Today it is a major meeting point for public gatherings and official ceremonies.
Riga Central Market
One of the most unique aspects of the city is the Riga Central Market. One of the largest markets in Europe, the Riga Central Market is easily identifiable by the fact that it is housed in parts of old zeppelin hangers. With vendors both outside and inside, this market has a ton of things to offer ranging from meats and produce, to freshly baked foods, traditional clothing, and souvenirs. It’s a great place to visit in the mornings and grab some home made baked goods and fruit for breakfast.
Food and Drink in Riga
Traditional Latvian food is very hearty and filling; lots of potatoes, pork, and given its location on the Baltic sea, fish. I ate out one night and ordered potato pancakes and salmon with a mixed vegetable salad- it was honestly one of the best meals I have ever had.
Latvia also has a traditional drink: Black Balsam, which is definitely an acquired taste. Locals swear that it can also be used as a medicine if sick. It comes in two flavours; traditional and black current, and is something every visitor should try at least once.
Nightlife in Riga
Riga is known for a big bar and nightclub scene which is popular with many Europeans. Beers tend to run you around 3 euro in old town, and will be a euro or so cheaper outside of it. Most venues offer happy hour to be sure to take advantage.
When I visited there were plenty of warnings of mafia-run bar scams. I’m not sure if this is the case anymore but, as always, be cautious if you go out drinking. If you aren’t sure, consider joining a pub crawl to ensure you end up at safe/trustworthy places.
A Note on Travel Insurance in Latvia
Please, do NOT travel without travel insurance! I’ve had to rely on mine multiple times. While the cost may seem annoying and better spent elsewhere, trust me when I say you’ll be sorry if you don’t have it. For just a couple bucks a day, you can save yourself a whole lot of stress and money. I like to recommend SafetyWing for travel medical insurance as they are one of the most affordable options I’ve found, plus, they are who I use and I have had great experiences with them. Learn more about the importance of travel insurance here.